Tuesday, August 16, 2011

Bali Traditional Tour

I didn't know too much about Bali before we went, and I am disappointed to say that I am not that familiar with its history, culture and overall vibe since having experienced a small portion during a week long holiday back in February. It was one of those deals that was too good to pass up. $325 dollars round-trip from Seoul with a day and a half layover in Kuala Lumpur (come to think of it, I forgot to blog about our time in KL. Note to self: do that). Sami jumped right into all of the planning for the trip, but by the time we got there, we were exhausted from our Southeast Asia vacation, and Sami was having trouble with morning sickness. Still, we were able to get out for a few memorable tours.

Unlike most of Indonesia, which is primarily Muslim, nearly 90 percent of the people in Bali identify themselves as Hindu. Bali is especially famous for its Hindu temples, and on our first tour, we visited both private and public temples that were uniquely Balinese. Every street we drove through was lined with family temples, and we were lucky enough to tour one as the occupying family was preparing to celebrate the temple's birthday (no joke). Before we entered, we had to put on sarongs. It felt kind of strange being dressed by a young man, but as the saying goes, "when in Bali..."

Next we were led to the back yard for a look at a few elaborately designed statues made out of food as offerings to the Hindu gods. One of the statues contained a butchered pig's head, and the swine's fat had been used as a decorative tool also. Another consisted of rice cake, the type of which we have become very familiar with in Korea, in may colors. Afterward, we strolled through a covered area, where family members were preparing for a feast later that evening. Everyone had a job to do to prepare. Men torched the feathers off of ducks, and women peeled and boiled vegetables. I felt a little strange walking through what felt like should have been an area designated for family only.
Putting on the sarong.
Inside the family temple
Sami examines one offering made from rice cake.

This is easier than plucking, but probably not traditional.




Next we rolled through an outdoor market. I always watch these travel shows where the hosts stroll into these open air markets and know exactly what to ask for from each stall. They buy the freshest meat and produce and then take it somewhere nearby where a local cooks a delicious meal using traditional methods. And all of it costs about 33 cents. I have never experienced this. It seems like every time I go, it is too late in the afternoon, flies buzz around everywhere over fish guts and rotted meats, the fruit seems overpriced and the workers are napping. Maybe those shows are crap, or maybe I just need to wake up earlier and get the fresh stuff.


If you show up too late to an open market, the food isn't as fresh and the workers are asleep. Understandable since they start around 4 in the morning.

The next place we visited was Gunung Kawi Temple. The scenery was unlike anything we had seen, and it was worth the long walk to get there based on the rice terraces alone. It was really difficult to take pictures of such a big and beautiful place with our small and shitty camera. Still, I tried my best.


Gunung Kawi

Rice terraces at Gunung Kawi

We ate lunch overlooking Mt. Batur, which is an active volcano. I don't think that I was ready to pose for this picture.
After our buffet lunch, which was good, but left me feeling like a glutton, we toured a local coffee plantation. At this tourist attraction, they purveyors also grow cinnamon, cloves, cocoa and vanilla and more, but the real draw is the coffee Luwak. Coffee Luwak is coffee made from the coffee beans that have been ingested, digested, and discarded by a civet, a wild, nocturnal, cat-like animal. The idea started back when Bali was under Dutch rule, and the only way for locals to get coffee that wasn't meant to be shipped to Europe, was to pick the beans out of the civet poop.

Now, I understand that drinking coffee that was once inside an animal and later poop is not for everyone, but because of the natural fermentation process, and the fact that a civet only eats the choicest berries, Coffee Luwak is considered a delicacy, and by weight, is the most expensive coffee in the world. Sami and I shared a cup and it was quite good. Very smooth and strong. I was wide awake for hours afterward with no let down. Of course, they drink it unfiltered, so all the sludge remained at the bottom and reminded us of what it once was. I ate the sludge anyway.

Coffee Luwak beans. That is a lot of fecal matter!

A man and his son roast the beans in the traditional method.

Coffee Luwak- about $5.75 for this small cup. Much more expensive in other parts of the world.

Going in for a drink of poop!

Even Sami tried it!

The sludge at the bottom
Our last stop was Pura Tirta Empul, also known as the Temple of Holy Water, which we were told was one of Bali's most important temples. The locals believe that the water there has healing powers, so many people were swimming and rinsing themselves under the fountains.


Pura Tirta Empul

Pura Tirta Empul
On our way home, I felt a little better about our trip to Bali. I was finally starting to realize why this place is so special and why it is called "The Land of 1,000 Temples." Still buzzed from the coffee, I was excited to see what the rest of the trip would bring.

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