Mulu- Part 1

We took a small plane a short distance from Kota Kinabalu in the Malaysian Borneo state of Sabah to Miri, where we dropped off about half the passengers and then re-boarded on a flight bound for Mulu National Park in the state of Sarawak.

If the names of these destinations sound exotic to you, it is because they are. I crowded Sami and stared out the window in awe of limestone pinnacled jungle mountains and fat brown meandering rivers. If it wasn’t for our pleasantly uninspiring in-flight snack of peanuts and chocolate milk, I may have found myself too intimidated to depart from my aisle seat. Maybe it had something to do with the fact I was forced to read Conrad’s “Heart of Darkness” a few dozen times in high school and college, but I was scared.

My apprehension died the moment our escort dropped us off at the gate of the Royal Mulu Resort. Typically, we prefer to go the economic route- stay somewhere cheap and locally-run. In Mulu, there are two boarding options- the park, which was booked, and the resort. We first entered this jungle oasis by crossing a footbridge above the Melinau River, which wraps around scattered longhouses built on stilts. Wooden walkways sprawl throughout the resort, connecting clusters of suites and lead to a spacious reception lounge. 

Inside, groups of tour companies set up shop and helped newcomers create an itinerary for their stay. We opted to take the 20 minute walk to the park entrance instead of dealing with these groups and paying for a ride. Along the way to the park, a skinny dog walked out in front of us, leading the way. Even though our legs were still sore from the climb up Mt. Kinabalu, it was nice to walk and take in the beauty of this relatively untouched land. We passed a few houses along the way, and even a bar. Residents of the small village all drove motor scooters, and would occasionally stop to chat with their neighbors. We smiled and waved and followed our guide dog.

The employees at the park hurriedly helped us get squared away for the next day’s adventure. They worked quickly because we showed up at 4:55 and they were to close at 5. The park employees set us up with an itinerary that fit with our schedule- we were to walk over the sky canopy the next morning and visit two caves in the afternoon. The day after that, we would hit up two more caves.

That night, while reading at the lodge on the deck overlooking the river, I became enthralled with clusters of quick flying birds that darted about the room. The lodge has high vaulted ceilings, but is open around the sides so these birds could fly in and out at will. It didn't take me long to realize that they were really bats. I was giddy with excitement. I ran to the receptionist who confirmed my suspicion. I asked if she gets freaked out by them, but she said no. They are used to them. Every time a bat would buzz by I would shriek like a five year old and I watched entranced as they whirled around a light over the river, no doubt sucking down bugs.

Bats!

 I could have stayed watching all night, but Sami wouldn't have it. We walked back down the walkway to our room with me ducking and shrieking with each passing bat. Minutes before reaching the door, a violent rain came down that night and made us feel the power of the jungle. Once inside, I plopped down on the bed. I looked around at our spacious room- too nice for us. There was an extra bed that we used as a storage area for all of our sunscreen. I listened to the rain and thought about the bats. I was already starting to realize that this could be the coolest place I had ever been.