Wednesday, November 24, 2010

A word on books-On the trail with hidden bugs-Sky walk-Lost binoculars-Bowl of noodles

We sat down just inside the entrance to Gunung Mulu National Park in front of a seven foot high frosted glass plaque commemorating the recently tamed jungle acres and limestone bat caves within as a UNESCO World Heritage site. We sat waiting for our guide in the thick morning heat that is not unlike the heat at any other time of day or night at that particular latitude. While waiting, I set in on devouring a secondhand work of fiction purchased the day before at the Kota Kinabalu Airport.

Two days before I had finally finished McCullough's birth to death masterpiece on the life of our 33rd President. The epic tale was such a joy to read that I took time to savor every scene in the thousand page biography like a nine course meal. The "amuse-bouche" of asparagus mousse and champagne (The backstory of Truman's grandparents and parents, birth and childhood). Course 1: Tuna tartare paired with Reisling (Harry takes over the family farm and then joins the infantry in WWI even though he is over 30 years old, sees action in France). Course 2: grilled scallops with seaweed / sauv blanc (Harry falls in with a powerful political boss who helps him get elected as county judge). Course 3: sauteed foie gras / sauterne (Harry is elected state senator and makes a name for himself heading a committee that investigates war spending, uncovering tens of millions of dollars of waste). Course 4: gaspacho consomme /viognier (Harry is miraculously chosen as Vice President, 82 days later, FDR dies. The farmer from Missouri soon finds himself seated beside Churchill and Stalin in Potsdam, Germany). Course 5: lobster / chardonnay (The President approves the releasing of atomic bombs over Japan, ending the war and ushering the world into the atomic age). Course 6: fish dish / pinot noir (The President recognizes the Jewish state of Israel, runs come from behind election by traversing the country "giving 'em hell"). Course 7: meat course / merlot / cabernet (survives an assassination attempt) Course 8: cheese course / white red port wine (makes the controversial decision to remove Gen. MacArthur from his position during the Korean War). Course 9: dessert / montbazillac (life after the presidency back in Missouri).

The book I read while waiting for our guide was like a mini pack of Skittles. I cannot recommend it, much less remember any of the character's names, but Truman made me into a better reader, and I charged through it with vigor.

Our guide came and led us up the trail to the sky bridges, pointing out various little unique insects along the way. Our group consisted of a thick legged Scottish woman with short shorts and hiking boots, a scraggly young Englishman currently residing in SIngapore and a young Chinese couple with a young daughter. We saw hairy caterpillars and bugs that disguise themselves as leaves and twigs.

Here is one creepy crawly caterpillar


and here is a bug trying to be a leaf
The canopies seemed a neverending labyrinth and if I could do it again I would take fewer pictures and enjoy my time on the bridges. The pictures don't convey the sense of danger looking down at a plank not wide enough for both feet positioned side by side and suspended 50 feet over dense jungle and muddy river with no escape. The bridge would sway side to side with each step and creak and I would reach out to steady myself by grabbing Sami's shoulder, but I was alone- as a rule, only one person is allowed on each section of bridge at a time.

Sami up in the canopy
The young Chinese girl followed us around instead of her parents. Call me a wuss, but I would have been frightened to death that high at that age.


I borrowed a friend's binoculars on the trip and tried to spy birds or monkeys, but all I could ever see was the green wall of jungle trees. On the walk back I discovered that I had lost the lens caps to the binoculars and felt terrible. We re-traced our steps but couldn't find them. I looked back at the pictures I took to see when they fell. In one picture I saw them and in another I saw that they were gone. I went back to the area covered between the digital evidence, but they were lost in the expanse of the jungle. Hidden among the leaves like an insect avoiding prey, mimicking it surroundings.

I sat dejected by my carelessness and we ordered lunch. I had Mulu Laksa which was a rice noodle dish is a spicy red pepper broth with coconut milk. There were pink flowers in the bowl and a small cut lime to squeeze. It was my favorite thing eaten in Borneo. Much better than Skittles.

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